π Hidden gems remaining: 17
As expected for the Indian capital, Delhi is a very busy and chaotic city. Divided into two distinct sectors, Old Delhi proves even more sketchy and worn than its newer sibling New Delhi. Despite this, developed and clean areas can be found as long as you do not detour far from main streets.
We made a splendid decision early on to make use of underground public transportation. Despite wide areterial roads, those are jammed most of the day, resulting in enormous wait times if you even arrive at the end of the day. Metro is a little bit more expensive than other means of public transportation, but it is so worth it for its convenience and puctuality. Feeling adventorous? You can always test your bargain skills with rickshaw drivers that will give you the best and most pristine roller coaster ride of your life.
By the way, rickshaws are always faster than cars or god forbid buses β they can squeeze through the traffic, make tight turns, and even take a one-directional shortcut (in the wrong direction, of course).
India is notorious for different variants of scams and we were no exception in partaking. The most common was without a doubt misinforming you about anything you asked in the first place (if you even asked) and then guiding you directly into an "official" government of India tourist office. Then they would try to scare you into cancelling you train tickets so you would book again (with their provision in place of course) or booking a "private" tour of the scammers' shops.
The good part was: they at least had air conditioning.
Well, these "official" offices are at every corner. When we fled out of the first office, another guy was waiting for us. We asked them how to get to the park, but he insisted it was closed and he would take us to another park. How did the "another park" look like? An "official" government of India tourist office (no greenery included) π
Our target finally reached (closed on Mondays only).
Compared to what you are about to hear, others were just a walk in the park β pun intended. When we finally settled in the central park (not all Indians are evil β a friendly guy actually took us there) and Ε½an took a nap, Marko was approached by a guy that later introduced himself as a policeman serving in civil. He even showed the badge (you really should not belive this please). He tried to persuade us into believing that Delhi was about to close for police hour for duration of 20 days!!! He was mentioning some Article 44, but we googled it and it was some school uniforms act π. We checked this information with Slovenian embassy, just to be sure. It would affect our whole travel plan if true, in our defence. Now you know why you always receive an SMS with embassy info when entering a foreign country. Upon checking with his officials, our honorary consul laughed the scammers off and approved our travel plan.
Red Fortress Majestatis.
Like many Unesco protected sites visited in Delhi, we were swiftly approached by tourist guides but we decided to tackle this fort on our own. Was it a bad decision? Maybe. We will never know. Switching owners rapidly in the past, most of the "damage" was done by Brits who looted the place while converting it into an army base. Yet, the architectural details stayed intact. Upon reconquering it during the Independence war it was named the festivity spot for celebrating the vigorous victory.
Architecture shines bright in white marble and contrasts it using red sandstone as a main building material. Complex consists of a public and private audience halls (diwan, a lot like Slovenian divan β look like the throne was very comfortable). Accompanied with many baths, each with different water temperature (unlike our apartment with just cold water) and servants quaters, Red Fort stretches over a vast area, yet is still overcrowded with visitors.
Indians are very impressed when they see Europeans β and they always want to make selfies with us. Although it may seem innocent, we decided to only do this in less crowded areas. Namely, when another group of Indians sees you taking selfies with Indians, they will want a selfie too. In a nutshell, you will stand there whole day taking selfies.
Hopla!
Covered market, in the same form as in the past.
Marko pointing at his Divan π.
Marvel heading towards a marvel.
Dare not skip this grave β is something I would never have guessed I would say. Just like pharaons, Mughal leaders were notorious for building breathtaking "eden gardens" to let them enjoy post-mortem life in a kings fashion, not compromising on servants or luxuries. To satisfy all their needs, the main mausoleum was centered in the garden which stretched simetrically in all directions, with paths surrounded by mouth-watering fruits like mangos, irrigating canals and fountains. Along with the leader, servants like a barber were burried too, some even receiving their very own β although smaller β buildings, each a piece of art on its own.
When we reached one of the tombs, an oldie (we will call him ata) approached us and invited us inside. While we wanted to look around on our own, he kept suggesting where to look and what photos to take. "Look here, gud photo spot!" At the end, he showed towards the ceiling, "gud photo". Ultimately, he gestured π«°. When we tossed him a coin, he wasn't as impressed as with good photo spots. Neither were we with the photos π
Indians care deeply for disabled people (they call them less able people). Here was no exeption. They had it in mind, but the execution lacked.
Backdoor look.
Squeezy peezy lemon easy.
Good perspective!
We have advanced vastly in know-how regarding space and celestial objects. But before all modern equipment, their practice was different. As seen in this observatory, legs were your best friend, covering distances and batches of stairs, trying to locate just the correct angle and making a reading from marble-sandsone structures. We tried to understand how it all worked, but were overwhelmed.
Observing the stars during the day with a binoculars
Lotus flavoured promenade walk.
Sunder nursery is a park located nextdoor of Humayun's tomb, so grouping the visit is a no-brainer. Upon reaching the ticket counter we were astounded that a yearly pass existed. Why would someone want to visit a park with tombs everday? But we quickly changed our minds as the park provided a quiet shelter from reality for students and others alike to calm down in many shaded areas. A windy path through thick greenery with animals like peacocks running around just enhances the overall experience. Fabulous. We would have stayed longer were we not hungry and cooked from the noon sun.
Dedicated to warriors of India who combated the occupation, this gate is huge and majestic. There is a long promenade leading there, a beautiful closed pedestrian-only area. However, the peaceful walk is disrupted multiple times by crossing a veeeery traffic heavy road. Why did we cross the road? Because we were not chicken.
Have we told you yet how to cross the road in India? You just go. Walk steadily, avoiding the passing cars and rickshaws. If you are very unsure, bring a horn and honk it constantly while crossing. This will give you power, and hence right of way. If you are still scared, close your eyes and walk. We cannot promise anything, but we are still alive as of time of writing this blog.
Monkeys everywhere. Some Indians say thery are monkeys (just working, eating and making children every day).
We had to run for rain was coming.
Were I not there, the door would collapse.
If you are fond of trains (like Job), this museum will give you shivers. Locomotive after locomotive, you can walk through the developement and scrutinise every detail up close. If you first enter the inside museum, you will have more idea what's to look for. We took the wrong order. Luckily, Marko has a mechanical engineering degree.
There are coaches, there's a turntable and β if already built β there's a miniature model of the railway system!
Marvellous edifice.
After being too late to visit it the first day, we just barely timed its visit the next day, but it was so worth it. This edifices' architectural design is a marvel. You reach it by strolling the park, pushing by numerous visitors (yes even at closing hours). Despite being a hindu temple, it warmly welcomes all religinos according to Ε½an. He was then devastated to find out we were unable to enter it. To be fair, no one was allowed inside. So we just snapped our photos, modeling in ponchos due to light monsoon rain.
This was also the first time we spotted any non-Indian tourists in Delhi. Until then we belived we were the only ones taking selfie requests here π. You cannot comprehend the impact a professional photocamera has on people. When we captured a photo and left, the spot previously empty filled with people snapping their memories from very same spot. Who has a big one, is a professional. Lens, of course.
India β the land of spices.
Prepared ourselves by attending few travelogues and asking our connections, we made a deal to stick mostly to well-established restaurants (not McDonald's, just not sus-looking street vendors) for the most part of the trip. Not only did we try to avoid the unhygenic conditions of street establishments, but also tried to spare both our mouth and intestines from overly (normal for Indians) spicy food. We were not always successful, but we did not get sick.
Close to our home, we tried Chicken Lababdar, chicken Afghani, Mutton Rogan Josh (very tasty!), fried chicken momos and sides like naan and lassi. While sight-seeing, we entered a very sketchy Old Delhi district. Marko became reluctant, but we eventually continued β and found an overly tasty restaurant where we tried Shahi Paneer, Achaari Chaap and Steamed Momos Paneer. We were full util evening! The last day, we ate at a place which later turned out to be a bit too local for us β the food was so spicy we couldn't finish one of the dishes (Palak Kofta). The lentil & chickpea Dal Makhani was tasty (although still somewhat spicy).