π Hidden gems remaining: 9
Malaysians really like koalas, that's why all their cities start with Kuala. No, just kidding, it means "where two rivers merge". Similar to how all Swedish towns end with Γ₯, meaning "by the river".
Kuala Berang is a pristine local village, not well-known by tourists. While it represents a good starting point to reach the Kenyir Lake (this was my main reason to come here!), it also offers a glimpse into the local way of life. Take your time, slow down, and get to know how locals really live. Feel their warmth and friendliness. Eat pristine food just like a local. And buy dragonfruit.
Reaching the wonderful lake was more difficult than anticipated. All the information I could get on the Internet was greatly outdated. After consulting a local restaurant owner, I took a night bus from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Berang (note: tickets sold only in the EasyBook app; unavailable at 12goasia). Arriving early in the morning, I waited for the rain to cease to fall, then waited at the hotel reception for the village to wake up.
However, my goal was to reach Tasik Kenyir (daily trip). So next day, I tried to grab a Grab. But with no success. In twenty minutes, no drivers were found, which drove me to despair. Taxi by the street? There were many yesterday, but none today. Lastly, I walked to the main bus station and found a taxi-station there. The old taxi driver spoke no English, but luckily, I had Google Translate (and Malaysian language is easy for Slovenians to pronounce!) and hands. But, well, as if I wasn't already almost a full hour too late, we were running out of fuel and needed to pump some gas.
Twenty minutes later, our machine was ready to go, and off we went. I reached Tasik Kenyir with exactly 1 hour of delay.
Colourful clothes.
While walking around the first day (just exploring the surroundings), I perceived how welcoming the people living here were. We had some small talks and many offered me a ride (although I was just wandering around the town with no clear destination). I ate very locally: in the morning, restaurants have a buffet-like pre-prepared meals. A local who was fluent in English helped me order and pay (although not all Malaysians speak English, there will always be someone close by who does!), and after exchanging a few words, he connected me with his friend, who happened to be a boat driver at the Kenyir Lake!
I like las palmas.
Riding a boat across the Tasik Kenyir will bring you breathtaking views, just like Ratchaprapa in Thailand. They actually have some common characteristics: both are artificial lakes, created to provide potential energy for hydrological powerplants. Both are the biggest lakes. And both are beautiful!
Both will try to sell you expensive floating hotels. But both can be visited in a more budget-friendly manner. I was lucky that a local knew another local who had a boat driver here. Arranging the ride in advance came with multiple pros, the largest one being "having a plan". If you plan to visit the lake, I can connect you two on WhatsApp.
Jetti. Here's where it starts.
First-row view from the boat.
Houseboat. They are slow and expensive, but might offer you a view of the starry night during the night.
Standing strong on the ground, the artificial water robbed this tree of nutriens to grow and prosper. It withered, but remained strong. If you look closely, you can see white and black algae, which represent the minimum and maximum water levels. The tree is still so strong to this day that you can climb on it!
In fact, this was once the tallest tree here around. The water here is 500 metres deep, so this tree must be 500 m tall. The source of this information is probably the same as for "Keops' pyramid weighs 7 tons".
βEven the tallest tree in a lake was once a seed that held its groundβ βProverb
Also known as Sah Kecil Island, the Taman Herba boasts a botanical garden spread over the whole area. Take a look. If you are like me, hike around the island instead. However, note that the paths are not drawn on Google Maps nor Mapy.cz! If you run a GPS-tracker while walking along the paths, you can actually help fix that :)
Herbal garden at the Herbal island
Sitting on a swing.
As the water level is constantly chaning, they have a special floating mechanism to bring electricity cables from floating solar pannels to the island.
Unrelated to the Dead Tree, this Dead Forest was subject to the same fate. Spatially separated just enough for a small boat to pass, you can float around the maze here, as though it were a labyrinth. These trunks are however not strong, so as much as you would like to jump from pole to pole, I have to discourage you.
With one word: wonderful.
You have already read how I had reached the lake. But how to get back once you take in all the beauty? Here's what I tried:
In the restaurant, 3 more Malaysians joined us. We ate fried bananas (Goreng Pisang), fried tapiok and fried fish. Upon finishing dining, I switched cars and the other 3 Malaysians drove me to Kuala Berang. I am very thankful π«Ά
Friendly locals who picked me up! ππ»
I combined it with my travel day to visit Kuala Terengganu. As the region capital, most long-haul buses will start there. It can be reached by a visually appealing pink bus called My Bas, it takes around 1 hour, line T22. There, walk around the park and along the Batu Buruk Beach.
Kuala Terengganu is much more tourist-oriented. This means you will have a hard time finding good local food (in fact, this was the first time during my trip that I wasn't satisfied with my food choice). However, close to the beach, you will find a local area with yummy food. It is worth the long way there!
She sells seashells by the seashore. Contless conches.
The panoramic window got broken, I am straining myself.
πΆ Swing a little swing on me πΆ
I ate at Fatehah & Family Corner every day. First because it was just next-door to my accommodation, then because I was so satisfied with it. My favourite was fried rice wrapped in egg omlette, of course combined with a cup of Milo π
The fired bananas we ate at an unnamed restaurant. Although I had been scared at first (because I ate fried bananas once in my childhood and they were terrible), it turned out Malaysians really know how to make fried bananas. Because these ones were tastily delicious! π
Nasi Goeng Pataya
Fried bananas! Fresh, tasty, still having consistency, made of small bananas.
While in Asia, there's some Asian fruit to be tried. My first and foremost is the dragonfruit. Although the white dragonfruit content has a fuller taste, the red one has an outstanding colour. It is surprisingly easy to peel and cut (you can use a normal spoon if your "equipped kitchen" has no knives β or just bare hands). There was (a different) someone selling it by the Hashim street every day.
The name dragonfruit comes from the dragon skin-like appearance of the fruit, and so does the skin of snakefruit look like a snake. Local name for it is sarak madu. The taste and crispiness remind me of a combination of pineapple, durian and apple, while the peeled outer appearance reminds me of garlic.
I ran out of water while running the beach plaza. Instead of buying normal water, I decided to get myself a coconut. I have good memories of coconut content from Thailand. I obtained it from a local food place where I also ate delicious food (fried rice)!
Dragonfruit π²π
Snakefruit ππ
